The Black Roots Of Macaroni And Cheese (2024)

The Black Roots Of Macaroni And Cheese (1)

Briona Lamback

December 11, 2023

Mac and cheese wasn’t always the creamy baked noodle dish we know and love today. Food historians trace its origins back to Europe, where it had simple pasta-and-cheese beginnings. Like our people do best, we learned the game and made it our own.

James Hemmings spent years closer to freedom while studying cooking in France than he ever would in the US, working at Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello plantation. When Hemmings returned to Virginia, he was Monticello’s chef de cuisine. There, he innovated and perfected mac and cheese.

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Hemmings popularized it, heirlooming the knowledge for generations, primarily through enslaved Black women cooks. According to food historians, the over 200-year-old recipe uses half water and half milk to boil the pasta, giving the noodles a silky finish.

It’s a delicately layered dish that takes a certain level of finesse to master; that’s part of why it’s always been a special occasion food for our people. When corporations started mass producing the stovetop variety, we still leaned on ancestral recipes that required patience and intention.

We’ve always been innovative. Whatever you do, it’s up to you to use your talents to take up arms in our liberation movement. From food to fashion, using our brilliance to teach and empower each other is what will stick around and impact us for generations to come. Community is the true recipe for our success.

The Black Roots Of Macaroni And Cheese (2024)

FAQs

The Black Roots Of Macaroni And Cheese? ›

The African American History Behind American Mac and Cheese

What are the origins of mac and cheese? ›

The first modern recipe for macaroni and cheese was included in Elizabeth Raffald's 1769 book, The Experienced English Housekeeper. Raffald's recipe is for a Béchamel sauce with cheddar cheese—a Mornay sauce in French cooking—which is mixed with macaroni, sprinkled with Parmesan, and baked until bubbly and golden.

What is the origin of the word macaroni? ›

Maccheroni comes from Italian maccheroni (Italian: [makkeˈroːni]), plural form of maccherone. The academic consensus supports the position that the word is derived from the Greek μακαρία (makaría), a kind of barley broth which was served to commemorate the dead.

What does grainy mac and cheese mean? ›

High heat can cause cheese to break down and become grainy. Melt the cheese over low to medium heat, stirring constantly.

What happened to James Hemings? ›

Serving as head chef for Thomas Jefferson for seven years, he prepared meals for America's political and societal elites at Monticello, New York City, and Philadelphia. After negotiating with Jefferson, Hemings was granted freedom in 1796 but passed away in Baltimore just five years later.

How did James Hemings invent mac and cheese? ›

James Hemings, Thomas Jeffersons, slave, brother-in-law, personal valet, and then eventually chef created the version we know of today after having in France a dish of pasta and cheese that he called at the time macaroni pie.

Which president invented macaroni and cheese? ›

James Hemings: The Enslaved Chef of Thomas Jefferson Who Created Mac and Cheese.

What do Canadians call mac and cheese? ›

In Canadian culture

The meal is the most popular grocery item in the country, where "Kraft Dinner" has an iconic status and has become a generic trademark of sorts for macaroni and cheese.

Who is the father of mac and cheese? ›

James Hemings was the first American trained as a master chef. He was also the brother-in-law and enslaved property of Thomas Jefferson. It is confirmed by historians that James Hemings (1765-1801) an American mixed-race slave owned and freed by Thomas Jefferson is the creator of American macaroni and cheese.

Do Italians eat macaroni cheese? ›

Whether it's out of a box or handcrafted from scratch, it's an absolutely beloved dish. While it feels like a quintessentially American recipe, it should be no surprise that a cheesy pasta casserole's origins are in ancient Italy - and here's the history of mac and cheese!

Is macaroni Chinese or Italian food? ›

In Italy there is maccheroni, but this could include pasta of variants of shapes and they are cooked differently. Definitel not Chinese cuisine! Macaroni originated in Italy as Maccheroni. But Maccheroni doesn't look anything like what people know as macaroni: elbow-shaped short tubular pasta.

What was macaroni slang for? ›

A macaroni (formerly spelled maccaroni) was a pejorative term used to describe a fashionable fellow of 18th-century Britain. Stereotypically, men in the macaroni subculture dressed, spoke, and behaved in an unusually epicene and androgynous manner.

What cheese to avoid for mac and cheese? ›

Dry, crumbly cheeses like feta or cotija are not ideal. With their high moisture levels, they don't melt properly and will leave you with clumps of cheese instead of a smooth sauce.

What thickens mac and cheese? ›

Butter and flour: The combination of butter and flour thickens our creamy cheese sauce. You'll cook them together on the stove and then add the milk. The mixture thickens, and you can add your cheese. Easy!

What is macaroni and cheese a symbol of? ›

It's true: macaroni and cheese is more than a yummy calorie-laden food option. The delectable casserole, drenched in cheese and butter, transcends food, rising to the giddy heights of symbolism. Its gooey, golden essence contains love, family, and Southern tradition.

What is the history of mac and cheese on Thanksgiving? ›

Thanksgiving Mac & Cheese

We created this recipe when we opened American Eats Tavern in Washington, DC. We traced the history of the dish back to James Hemings, an enslaved cook working for Thomas Jefferson, who learned about the technique when Jefferson brought him to France to learn to cook.

What are James Hemings snow eggs? ›

Snow Eggs or Isle Flotante or Oeufs a la neige as they're known in France are wonderful poached meringues that sit on a custard or creme anglaise. The name snow was attributed to the whipping of the egg whites until they looked fluffy and stiff like snow.

Why was Kraft macaroni and cheese invented? ›

During the Great Depression, a St. Louis, Missouri, salesman, Grant Leslie of Dundee, Scotland, had the idea to sell macaroni pasta and cheese together as a package, so he began attaching grated cheese to boxes of pasta with a rubber band. In 1937, Kraft introduced the product in the U.S. and Canada.

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